MEET THE CHEF: THE GREEN HOUSE

For Executive Chef Dexter Spencer, cooking has always been about connection—to place, to season, and to the ingredients themselves. A Wilmington native who trained in Portland, Oregon, Spencer brings a rare blend of scientific curiosity and soulful creativity to his kitchen at The Green House. His path to the restaurant was as organic as the produce he works with: from a transformative stint at Alaska's remote resort kitchens to his time at Portland's Farm Spirit. In this vegan, farm-to-table restaurant, the menus were dictated entirely by the day's harvest.

The Green House, Executive Chef Dexter Spencer

At The Green House, Spencer has found a home that mirrors his own values of sustainability, seasonality, and innovation. His food celebrates vegetables as the star—crafted with precision, international flair, and a deep respect for the land they come from. Whether he's hand-folding tortellini filled with local mushrooms, experimenting with fermentation inspired by his background in microbiology, or finding new ways to showcase muscadine grapes, Spencer's approach is rooted in curiosity and care.

For him, each dish is a conversation between science and art, nature and nurture—an invitation to taste the beauty of what's growing right now.

What makes The Green House unique for you as a chef?

For me, as a chef, what makes The Green House unique is the focus on vegetable-centered dishes. While it may sound simple, it's an inherent challenge to basically invent vegan cuisine and in a way that's both exciting and satisfying. This aligns perfectly with my approach to cooking—focusing on the beauty of ingredients and transforming them into memorable, delicious meals.

How would you describe the type of food you like to cook?

My culinary training is rooted in international European techniques, which gives me a broad foundation in flavors and methods. As an Italian-American, I'm most comfortable working with Italian flavors. As a North Carolinian, I've also come to appreciate Southern cuisine and the comforting, soul-satisfying dishes it offers. But I also have a strong interest in Asian techniques, particularly from Korean, Japanese, and Taiwanese cuisine. The way those cultures approach flavor balance, texture, and ingredients is incredibly different and inspiring to me.

What motivates and inspires you as a chef?

As a gardener, I'm deeply inspired by seasonality—seeing what's growing and what's coming next. That constant shift in what's available drives me to be creative and adaptive in the kitchen. There's something incredibly fulfilling about working with fresh, local ingredients and crafting dishes that reflect the changing seasons. Additionally, if I come across an ingredient or a flavor I enjoy, I feel a strong urge to learn how to cook it and understand its full potential. 

What might diners not know about you? 

I have a background in microbiology, stem cell research, and biopharmaceuticals. That's actually what sparked my passion for fermentation. Understanding how microorganisms and chemical processes work on a molecular level has given me a deep appreciation for how fermentation can transform flavors, textures, and even the nutritional properties of food. It is fascinating how cooking and molecular science intersect, as both involve a careful balance of elements and a profound understanding of the ingredients. 

Current favorite dish on the menu?

My current favorite dish on the menu is the Tortellini en Brodo. It features delicate handmade pasta filled with local mushrooms, served in a rich charred onion broth that adds depth and warmth. Pasta is really my speciality.

What's your favorite local produce, and how do you use it on the Green House menu?

Muscadine grapes. This versatile fruit works beautifully in both savory and sweet dishes. We incorporate muscadines into our menu in various ways, such as in jams, vinaigrettes, and even as grape candy. 

Favorite foodie city?

Portland, Oregon. It had the most significant influence on me as a chef, with its vibrant food scene. Second to that is Durham, North Carolina, with its fantastic food truck culture. The diversity and accessibility of street food in Durham are incredible.

What's your all-time best comfort food?

Depression-era chocolate and biscuits—a cherished breakfast tradition that always brings me back home. Passed down through generations, this recipe was originally written by my great-grandmother, the family cook, and later became part of our family cookbook. It was typed up in the 1970s and digitized in the early 2000s. This dish isn't just about flavor.—it's a connection to my family's history.

Describe the best meal you've ever eaten.

I've worked in more fancy restaurants than I've actually eaten at, and since cooking is my job—even on holidays and breaks—it's rare that someone cooks for me. My most memorable meal I've ever had was in Homer, Alaska: sushi right on the dock, made with fish that had just been pulled from the water. 

3 Songs on your current playlist?

If you Wanna Sing Out, Sing Out by Cat Stevens

What's Up? by 4 Non Blondes

Hella Good by No Doubt

An important piece of advice you have for home cooks.

Embrace your roots and build on that. Start with flavors you know and cook dishes you understand. Master the familiar first, then expand your skills.