BESPOKE SPRITZES, AMARO, AND SOUTHERN HOSPITALITY

At Bespoke, Wilmington’s newest all-day bar, Robby Dow is reimagining what it means to gather over a drink. Drawing on his years in New York cocktail culture and his North Carolina roots, Dow has created a program that bridges the ritual of morning coffee with the vibrancy of Italian aperitivo hour. The result is a space where a perfectly pulled espresso and a force-carbonated spritz feel equally at home—world-class technique delivered with the warmth of a neighborhood hangout.

Robby Dow, Bespoke

With a résumé that spans The Crunkleton in Chapel Hill, Grand Army in Brooklyn, and Olivero in Raleigh, Robby Dow brings both pedigree and playfulness to Wilmington’s evolving dining scene. A Durham/Hillsborough native, he first studied finance at NC State before discovering his true calling in hospitality at The Crunkleton. That spark carried him to New York, where four years at the acclaimed Grand Army Bar honed his expertise in Italian liqueurs and aperitivo culture and earned him recognition in leading spirits publications.

Returning to North Carolina in 2022, Dow worked with Dram and Draught and James Beard Award–winner Dean Neff’s Seabird before teaming up with Sunny Gerhart and Lauren Krall Ivey to launch the beverage program at Olivero. Now at Bespoke, he’s channeling those experiences into a bar that embraces contrasts: vintage amaro alongside Budweiser, Negronis on tap at sunrise, and an atmosphere that’s equal parts sophisticated and relaxed.

We sat down with Dow to talk about his inspiration for Bespoke, his passion for aperitivo culture, and the art of balancing high craft with casual fun.

You’ve described Bespoke as a bridge between coffee culture and Italian aperitivo culture. What inspired you to blend those two worlds, and how do you hope Wilmington responds to it?

In Italy and Spain, the concept of espresso and aperitivo is a natural pairing. What I wanted to do here in Wilmington and at Bespoke is carry that ethos with a robust and full coffee program alongside a fully equipped American-style bar program. We do so with a relaxed atmosphere and a style of service that is approachable and balanced. We’ve already seen Wilmington respond strongly, and we hope they can lean on us for a lovely carbonated spritz and a delicious Negroni at any time of day.

Your time at Grand Army and Olivero clearly shaped your approach to cocktails. How did those experiences influence the vision you brought back home to Bespoke?

They both absolutely shaped my approach to cocktails. My time at Grand Army and in NYC was very formative and grounded in cocktail culture at the highest level. I was very fortunate to work alongside some of the best in the biz. Grand Army was a world-class neighborhood spot with a huge emphasis on amaro and using amaro in cocktails. We strived to always do something special, but being a neighborhood spot, always a focus on keeping it approachable and fun. That has resonated in my style forever. At Olivero, I was blessed to work alongside some of NC’s best in Sunny Gerhart and Lauren Ivey. My time at Olivero gave me a chance to really connect with Wilmington through beverages and see the community’s enthusiasm for cocktail culture.

The draft cocktail and vintage amaro programs are standout features. Why did you feel those elements were important to introduce in Wilmington, and what makes them special to you personally?

The draft program at Bespoke is something very important to us and our brand. We do not simply just throw something on tap just to say we do so. The beverages are the best version possible we can make of those drinks. For example, when you get an Aperol Spritz at most places, it is lightly effervescent or “frizzante.” Our Aperol Spritz is force carbonated for days at very high pressure, so that the entirety of the beverage is ripping with carbonation, much like you would find in something like Topo Chico. Some drinks, like a classic margarita, are never better than on tap. In this case with the spritz-style beverages, force carbonating them is the way to go. This is something we take very seriously, but at the end of the day, we just want someone to relax, have a spritz, and have a great time. As for the vintage amaro, we wanted to showcase the beauty of these amazing vintage products and allow someone to time-travel with their glass. It’s amazing to see the variation in the taste of current products when you have them side by side. It’s a truly special experience, and we’re excited to include it in our program.

The renovation balances neighborhood warmth with a world-class program. How did you and your design team approach creating a space that feels both familiar and groundbreaking?

The main thing we wanted to do was to retain all the already special qualities of the space and build on that from there. 202 Princess is a stunning space in a beautiful building. The emphasis on neighborhood warmth was a priority, and something that has always been a part of my desires and love for bars. Both Grand Army and my old home, The Crunkleton in Chapel Hill, have very lush and comfortable wood tones that make you feel warm and fuzzy. My designers Patrick and Janine from Chuck Marie Studios worked with me to retain that American neighborhood bar feel with the nuance of the all-day cafés in Italy and Spain. It was a joy to work with them and bring it to life.

From Negronis on tap at 7 AM to Budweiser alongside vintage Fernet, Bespoke embraces both high craft and casual fun. How do you strike that balance without losing sight of either side?

I think one way we do it is through the style of service. Order at the bar, sit where you want, and have a great time with your pals. No reservations, no servers, just casual service. We love the combo of high-brow/low-brow aesthetic and through our menu and offering we like keeping things approachable, but there are certainly Easter eggs if you pay attention. You can come in and have the coldest Budweiser in town next to 1960’s Fernet, or you can have a delicious Negroni variation served on a beautiful clear piece of ice that we cut down by hand. We strive to provide guests with an exceptional cocktail experience, all while maintaining the casual bar atmosphere we all love.